MC: They are indeed bushes. Similar in form to the common lilac. On this farm you'll see zillions of hazelnut hedges on contour. The present plants are selections from crosses that occurred long ago (30 years) that include European Hazel (Corylus avelana), American Hazel (C. americana) and Beaked Hazel (C. cornuta). The observant grower can see traits from its ancestors ... some are very European looking (upright, vase shaped, large shrub) some more rounded like the American and some with long husks like the beaked.

OMC: What are the benefits of this? Are the nuts basically the same?

MS: The nuts are basically the same. Slightly different shape, more complex in flavor. The benefits of bushes include ease of mechanical harvest, no need for pruning or removal of suckers as is the case in the Pacific Northwest and no need for a bare-naked, perfectly level orchard floor. Between the rows of hazels we grow other crops from asparagus to raspberries to grapes to prairie flowers. You would not recognize this "mess" as either an "orchard" or a "farm". It is a savanna ecosystem. A savanna ecologist, however, would have a fit because everything is in rows so it can be managed and harvested with tractors!

OMC: You're something of a pioneer in the state, aren't you? Tell us about the handbook you're compiling.

MS: I guess if you're the first to do something, that qualifies you as a pioneer. The handbook is a very basic intro about hybrid hazelnut growing. The first edition has been sent to press and is available from SW Badger RC&D. (Call 608-348-3235 and ask for the Hybrid Hazelnut Grower's Handbook.)

OMC: What's your market for the nuts? Are they sold in the U.S. or beyond?

MS: Proprietory information! Sold in the US. My markets could easily consume 40 acres of hazels per week without even stretching. These crops are as versatile as corn and soybeans. They are a perfect industrial food ingredient. When we show that we can produce chestnuts and hazels as inexpensively as folks can grow corn and soybeans, your Cheetoh's will begin to be made from chestnuts and you won't even realize it. Same goes for soy products.

OMC: How's business? Do you expect to expand production?

MS: Our most mature hazelnut plants are finally coming into peak production. It will be another three years until the entire farm reaches mature hazel production. The chestnuts are nowhere near mature production levels. I'm aware of several old chestnut plantings that are 60+ yrs old and their crops are still increasing. I'm interested in expanding as fast as I can. Are you a potential investor?

OMC: What's your favorite use for hazelnuts? Chestnuts? Do you like them?

MS: Roasted hazelnut maple ice cream. WOW! Or is it hazelnut/shiitake pate? Or is it hazelnut/apple stuffed pork chops?

Although I've tried a zillion uses for chestnuts I still like them raw the best!, though they are great in stuffing, cream soups ( I make a fantastic squash/sour cream/lentil soup) they're great in apple pies, etc.

OMC: Any hints for consumers about selecting nuts? What should one look for when buying them?

MS: Whatever you do, do NOT buy chestnuts unless they are refrigerated. They are very perishable and will taste bad or be rotten if they are stored on the end-cap with the other nuts. Get them fresh from your local chestnut farmer for best results! Since most chestnuts that you would find in the U.S. come from Italy, you must realize that they are not the primo nuts. The best of the best are sold in Europe for the highest prices with the lowest shipping costs. The crap goes to the U.S. with their totally unrefined, mass-market pallettes.

Hazelnuts are more durable and can last for years at room temps without spoiling. Its hard to find a bad hazelnut even if it does come from Oregon or Turkey!

MS: I'm excited about the season. It's always nice in fall when it gets easier to find hazelnuts and chestnuts! Happy harvest ...

MS: Picking Hazelnuts began in earnest yesterday. Enjoy!

You can read excerpts from the handbook and learn more at www.badgersett.com/HazHandbook1.html. You can also email Mark Shepherd via this link. Call him at (608) 627-TREE.

Hazelnut ice-cream
(courtesy of the Slow Food Movement)

For 10 people:
300g hazelnuts
8 egg yolks
white of one egg
1 liter milk
1 vanilla pod
500g sugar

First you must toast the hazelnuts, which should be of a delicate flavor. Avoid using ready-toasted hazelnuts sold in bags. When the nuts have been toasted, they must be finely ground using the correct equipment: if you do not have this available, you can use a bottle (rolled over the nuts on a chopping board) or a hand-mincer -- but do not use electric liquidizers. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar, add the milk and vanilla pod (but remove the latter before putting the mixture in the ice-cream-making machine). Bring to the boil; after a few minutes, when the cream begins to bind, take off the heat and cool. Now add the ground nuts and the stiffly-whisked egg white, then put the mixture in the ice-cream maker for as long as required.

Preparation time: half an hour