The greens fees at Gray Hawk are not inexpensive, particularly by Milwaukee standards, but they are right in line with the upper tier 18's in Scottsdale, and they offer significant savings for their twilight golf packages. But for those of you with the means, or a burning desire to play one of Arizona's great layouts, it is worth every cent.

The Phoenician
6000 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale
(866) 716-8136

The Phoenician Golf Course is the most beautiful course I have ever played. When I close my eyes and think of golf, the holes of the Phoenician will undoubtedly elbow their way into the rotation of my favorite spots, as they parade through my head on cold, wet and/or wintry days. Granted, I have never played Pebble Beach or SpyGlass or Augusta National or Bandon Dunes, but I cannot imagine that they could eclipse this florid beauty.

Created in 1988 and redesigned in 1996, the 27 holes of the Phoenician are a real treat for golfers retreating from the cold. The three loops are named the Desert, the Canyon and the Oasis (Oasis is closed for 2009 because of construction on the resort) and are located at the base of Camelback Mountain just west of Old Town Scottsdale.

No matter how you configure your 18 holes between the three nines, you will not exceed 6,300 yards total -- but do not let that dissuade you. There is plenty of "Tiger Proof" golf available to you in the greater Phoenix area if you just wanna bomb it, but this course requires a little finesse.

The Desert track starts out pretty innocently, a straight-ahead 415 yard par 4 under swaying palm trees. Holes 2 and 3 are also pretty tame, with the main hazard seeming to be finding your ball amidst all the strays that have been misdirected from the driving range.

Hole 5 is where the Desert really hits it stride, though, as the course begins to climb up into the mountain. The views become more and more breathtaking the higher you climb, and as we ascended further up the mountain face we observed a multitude of hikers, mountain bikers, school groups, birders and casual strollers, which add to the refreshing outdoorsy vibe of the Phoenician.

Hole 6 is a nifty little elevated par 3 that requires an accurate mid to long iron to carry all of the brush and boulders between you and the pin. But don't lose yourself in your game to the point that you can't appreciate the view, because it is spectacular.

Another elevated par 3 at 8 is like a Stairmaster workout, as you have a nice bit of climbing to do just to reach the tee box. Once you do, you are rewarded with a large sloping green, which is offset by a large pink stucco chapel that seems to glow in the Sonoran sunlight. The drive to the 9th tee box follows a path that takes you past a vast menagerie of cacti that must contain every species of the genus.

The Canyon 9 is a bit more lush and has a more tropical feel than the desert course. Although you can find rocks with an errant shot, sand and water are the primary deterrents to par on this 9.

Hole 1 starts with an uphill carry over a small lake to a slight dogleg to a well-bunkered green. The contours and design of the course seem a bit tight from holes 4 through 7, but on the upside, errant shots are not particularly punitive, often landing in other fairways with great sightlines to the flag. Back-to-back par 3's on 7 and 8 force you to carry water on both, with bunkers waiting to catch any balls should trepidation cause you to overclub.

Though there isn't a lot of space to work with, probably my only quarrel with the entire course layout is the position of the forward/ladies tee box on 8. It is so close to the green that it is a really tough shot; it requires not much more than a chip. It's a classic "tweener" and it feels forced and a bit of an afterthought.

The par 5 9th is a dangerous 525-yard dogleg right with a road/guardhouse looming on the left, with the entire right side of the fairway flanked by a water hazard resplendent with fountains. Distance control is key here as the isthmus green beckons amidst even more water and trouble. It is a tremendous finishing hole on a vibrant course.

You would have to try very hard to find a bad lie on this property. The grass is amazing in the fairways and on the greens, perfectly maintained and deep, deep green. I've played other courses managed by Troon Golf, and have come to expect a luxurious round whenever I play a Troon property -- but the Phoenician excels even by their lofty standards.

As it turned out, we joined a twosome on the Canyon, Bob and Linda Lee from Kenosha. She golfs and he doesn't. She coaxes him out for one ride-a-long round a year and normally, I would've pitied Bob for missing out on such a great course.

On this day, however, I must confess that I was just the slightest bit envious that he was able to amble along and just take in the flowers and the scents and the multimillion dollar Frank Lloyd Wright inspired architecture on the mountain face, and the sculpted trees all free from the fleeting vagaries of a round of golf.

If you can only play one course during your visit, I would heartily recommend the Phoenician. It is a test of golf, but it won't break you. If you are rusty from a winter of inaction and want to play a course that won't destroy your confidence in an aura of pure pleasure, then this is the course for you.