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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Thursday, May 24, 2012

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In Dining Commentary

Two darn good, tasty apple pies, from the Elegant Farmer (left) and Apple Holler.

Take the Milwaukee challenge: Elegant Farmer vs. Apple Holler apple pies


This may have been the most difficult Milwaukee Challenge ever, since the apple pies we sampled from Mukwonago's Elegant Farmer and Apple Holler, in Sturtevant, were darn good, delicious examples of this most all-American of desserts. Our entire editorial staff agreed: This holiday season, you won't go wrong with either choice.

The Elegant Farmer pie, priced at $14.99, is famously baked in a paper bag. The Apple Holler's version ($13.99) claims to have five pounds of apples baked inside.

The choice was so difficult that when the writers and editors ended up deadlocked in a 4-4 tie, we asked OnMilwaukee.com President Jeff Sherman to weigh in and provide the deciding vote.

His ballot rendered Apple Holler the winner.

Tim Cuprisin
Media columnist
Pick: Elegant Farmer

While the Apple Holler pie was full of cinnamony goodness, it tasted more like an elegant apple pastry than the apple pie I was looking for -- and found -- in the Elegant Farmer's pie, all crusty and with just enough tartness.

Molly Snyder Edler
Staff writer
Pick: Apple Holler

The Apple Holler's Dutch apple pie is quite possibly the best apple pie I've eaten -- various family members' recipes included. Don't get me wrong, the Elegant Farmer makes a mean pie, too, but the crispy, crumbly, sweet top on the Apple Holler pastry launches it to "heavenly" status.

Plus, the Apple Holler pie is spicier -- with more cinnamon -- that adds a little kick to the pie-eating experience. The Elegant Farmer pie was more tart than sweet, which I liked, but I simply could not stop eating the Apple Holler pie because of the amazing crust.

Julie Lawrence
Staff writer
Pick: Apple Holler

A Milwaukee Challenge hasn't been this tough since, perhaps, the custard challenge (Kopp's vs. Leon's) in 2005. Never having tasted either Apple Holler or Elegant Farmer apple pies previously, I was first struck by how delicious they both were, and then by how different the two were.

After some serious thought, I gave my vote to Apple Holler, and I'll explain why. The hearty, crumbly top (which I learned is an attribute of the Dutch apple pie, rather than just the "regular" apple pie) was my first impression and I was hooked. I also liked that the dense filling, featuring long, thin strips of apples, stayed together despite my attack on the outer edge.

The Elegant Farmer pie, on the other hand, was much mushier. But it was a very tasty mush, indeed. What I liked about it was its distinct homemade feel, but to me, it came off as a bit tart for my taste in contrast to the blast of cinnamon and sugar I received from Apple Holler's. Some might prefer the more mild flavor of the pie baked in a paper bag, but me, I like indulging in decadent sweets during the holidays.

Drew Olson
Senior editor
Pick: Elegant Farmer

For starters, both of these pies would please your guests after dinner. They're at the top of the class in terms of pies I've sampled locally. The only shame in this challenge is that we were "forced" to eat this pie at 10 a.m. and without ice cream, whipped cream or even a dollop of Cool Whip.

I liked that Apple Holler's offering had the great crumb-laden topping and a hint of caramel, but -- in a matter of personal preference -- the filling congealed a bit more than I like from a pie. The Elegant Farmer's, which I admit to buying a few times a year, tasted a bit more "classic" to me. The crust was crunchy and the apples seemed a bit more tart and fresh.

Maureen Post
Staff writer
Pick: Apple Holler

No question, today's flavor battle between Apple Holler and the Elegant Farmer may just be one of the toughest Milwaukee Challenges to date. Both apple pies are homemade with fresh apples from local orchards, done just the way my grandmother would've done it. But for me, it all came down to my love for a crumble crust.

Apple Holler's Dutch Apple Pie was a dense five pounds of apples layered in a thick cinnamon and sugar filling. Baked in a rich, yet soft, crust, it was the crumbled cinnamon, sugar and flour topping that won me over. It wasn't an easy call, either.

The Elegant Farmer's pie is light and fresh with a flaky crust; the desired result of the brown paper bag baking technique. Much lighter on the cinnamon flavoring, the apples are cut thick and seem to be just a touch fresher.

Jeff Sherman
President
Pick: Apple Holler

I'm a blueberry and pumpkin pie guy, so when it comes to apple I'm far from an expert. Also, I generally prefer an apple crisp over the traditional apple pie. This fondness for the crisp may have swayed my preference toward the Apple Holler pie.

To my taste buds, the Apple Holler pie was more sweet and less spice. I microwaved each slice for 18 seconds and really liked how the Holler crust crunched a bit more and appeared and tasted a bit less oily and runny.

I'd eat another slice of either variety, but if forced to choose just one, it's Apple Holler for me.

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Talkbacks

Wez | Dec. 17, 2009 at 1:01 p.m. (report)

That link listed below is not the correct recipe. I know for a fact they use lard to make the crust...and a lot of it.

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cuprisin | Dec. 17, 2009 at 11:22 a.m. (report)

http://meemoskitchen.blogspot.com/2008/10/elegant-farmers-apple-pie-baked-in-bag.html

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mjonthemove | Dec. 17, 2009 at 11:17 a.m. (report)

This Milwaukee challenge is confusing. It seems much less like a choice between Apple Holler and the Elegant Farmer than it does between Regular Apple and Dutch Apple pies. Consequently, Apple Holler does offer regular Apple Pies. So, the possibility of a fair challenge is there. I respectfully request a re-Challenge.

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jakkalope | Dec. 17, 2009 at 11:01 a.m. (report)

You're never going to find the recipe. Just buy a pie online.

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sheribeary1111 | Dec. 17, 2009 at 9:18 a.m. (report)

I agree Apple Holler pies are hands down the best pies!

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