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in Between the Bars
Aboard the Lake Express
769-massexodus

34827 By BTB.MKE
Community Blogger

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Reader submitted blog Published Nov. 4, 2008 at 3:25 p.m.
Category: Travel & Visitors Guide
Tags: Lake Express, Lake Michigan travel

Earlier this month, my boyfriend Eric and I finally got a break from the whirlwind of weddings, seasonal activities and events that kept us on the go for the weeks prior.

We booked passage on the Lake Express, the Milwaukee-Muskegon cross-lake high-speed ferry service, for a weekend getaway to Whitehall, Michigan’s adorable Cocoa Cottage Bed & Breakfast.

It was our first real trip together after nearly three years of dating – the other mini weekend jaunts were strictly businesses or wedding related and didn’t offer much in the romance department, just stress and a few hangovers.

Despite the nature of the trip, we learned from those few days away that we make a great pair. Neither of us allows a few bumps in the road to infringe on an enjoyable time together; after all, seldom do things go as planned, well, at least in my life.

Of course, Eric and I both knew that even though we meticulously planned this particular excursion, it was inevitable that we’d come across something unforeseen. But! Naturally, we’d keep our typical even and mild disposition and open mind so that nothing, in the end, no matter how big of a wrench it was, could wreck our time.

With that being said, our trip was wonderful, regardless of a few, uh, bumps in the water...

On only about three hours of sleep, I woke before the buzz of my alarm clock at 6 a.m. – it was purely adrenaline waking me – I was just so excited to get out of Milwaukee for the weekend.

After brushing my teeth and putting on a few quick coats of mascara, I woke Eric. We gathered up our suitcases, loaded the car and stopped at Alterra on the Lake for a cup of joe to go.

The morning was cool with a wintry chill in the air, dew had collected on Eric’s car and a light fog loomed over dips in the road as we made our way toward the Port of Milwaukee. About ten minutes later, we pulled into the terminal parking lot, which was filled with vehicles.

As we hauled our luggage over to the two men standing at the entrance, waiting to load guest’s bags onto their cart, the Lake Express pulled into the dock. It was gleaming from the beams of light coming from the light poles and reflecting off its enormous, glossy white hull – it was so magnificent!

Owned and operated in Milwaukee, this high-speed auto/passenger ferry is the only one of its kind on both the Great Lakes and in the continental United States.

Without much delay, we checked two bags and proceeded to board the vessel from its starboard side. Boarding was smooth and fast as we ascended the staircase that led right to the passenger cabin. The cabin is spacious and fully climate controlled, allowing folks to comfortably stretch their legs and walk about the ferry during the crossing.

Pairs of wide, comfy seats line the windows on both sides of the boat and across the isles were long wooden tables with eight seats to accommodate larger groups or families. At the front of the ferry is a concession stand that offers light breakfast and lunch options, snacks, and coffee, soda, wine and beer; and at the back is the Premier Passenger Cabin that boasts bigger seats, more leg room, and a steward who caters to individual’s needs.

At this time, people were already getting situated, opening their laptops or newspapers as others made quick calls on their cell phones or turned on their iPod and reclined in their blue upholstered seats.

We slid into two spots at one of the tables, joining the business and pleasure travelers eager to take a fall trip across Lake Michigan. As a matter a fact, nearly 20 percent of travelers take the ferry for business while more than 40 percent are embarking on a two- to four-day vacation, says the website. And that’s fine because Lake Express is equipped to comfortably transport nearly 250 passengers, 46 vehicles and over 12 motorcycles.

With the soft glow of downtown Milwaukee serving as a backdrop, the Lake Express cruised out of the terminal where it kicked into full speed ahead. The ferry’s unrivaled speed is powered by 43,000 horsepower diesel engines, allowing the 192-foot long aluminum catamaran to make the 80-mile leg across Lake Michigan in 2.5 hours – a fraction of the time it would take to drive the 300 miles around the Lake and through Chicago. Propelled by four water jets, the vessel cut through waves and rolled over the deep blue water with ease.

Just as soon as we cast off, passengers sprang from their seats and frantically moved around the cabin. It seemed odd to me how much the boat was swaying back and forth. Just then, an announcement from the captain explained that due to inclement weather conditions – five foot chop, the highest in the ferry’s five years of sailing – he expected the trip to be extremely rocky and asked folks to stay seated for their safety.

As I looked around, I noticed more and more people getting up, though. They were making a wobbly beeline for the bathrooms, colliding with other people, chairs and walls along the way. Consequently, many people could only make it a few feet before buckling over and releasing their breakfast onto the wooden isle. It was sheer pandemonium and quite nauseating.

“You two don’t get seasick do you?” The woman sitting in front of us groaned.

“Ha. Of course not!”

I went on scoffing at all of the ashen-faced passengers staggering around the cabin, reaching for barf bags or swigs of anti-vomit fluids. To the woman in front of us, I boasted about how I have an iron stomach and how I’ve gone on several cruises in the past and never lost my lunch.

That’s when I ran to the bathroom.

Just like that my hands got clammy, my forehead got sweaty, my stomach began to churn, and the rosy color in my cheeks washed away to a ghostly white. I needed air...Fast!

Without saying a word, I sprang from my seat and made my way en route for the bathroom, smashing into walls with my shoulders while dancing around the sick passengers curled up into balls on the hardwood floor, moaning in utter agony. I felt like I was in a movie.

I hung out near the bathroom for several minutes where the cold breeze coming from a nearby doorway allowed me to gain composure. As I stood there, clinging to a metal railing along the wall with all of my mite, I thought about how I couldn’t go back to my seat after I ridiculed the entire cabin of sick people and I was one jerk away from being one of them.

While I stood there, rising and falling with the boat and trying to keep my balance, I watched as Lake Express workers moved around the cabin to check up on people – doling out barf bags to those who looked like they needed one.

A young woman in a Lake Express uniform came over to me and handed me one of the small white bags, which I immediately folded and stuffed into my front pocket. At that point, about 90 percent of the people on board were green about the gills, and many were right around me. I decided I couldn’t stand there anymore, so I hobbled back to my seat.

Acting as calm and collected as possible I whispered to Eric, “Hey, would you want to check out the view from outside?” I knew I needed some more fresh air.

Gripping the backs of seats along the way, we clumsily made our way to the back exit. The stern’s deck was packed with queasy people, holding bags full of vomit or crying children, but it felt so good to be outside in the crisp, open breeze, looking out over the sparkling water that stretched as far as the eye could see.

Eric and I braced ourselves by cling to a railing that overlooked the deck of cars, motorcycles and bikes down below. The constant quaking motion of the ferry had set off several car alarms, but the sound of the water rushing beneath the boat almost entirely muted the high-pitched honking.

After about a half hour, I was freezing, feeling much better, but freezing nonetheless. We went back inside the cabin and snagged two open seats at the port side of the boat so that I could look out the window. A gentleman in front of us turned around and asked how we were doing. He mentioned that by watching the horizon line, my stomach would settle. For the remaining half hour, I my eyes were glued on the distant horizon as I fell in and out of sleep.

Eric woke me up as we approached Michigan’s western shoreline. The surging waves had since calmed and the sun was shining – it felt like an entirely different voyage. Eric, giddy as can be, coaxed me into going back outside and onto the upper deck to admire the spectacular panorama.

I’m certainly glad I agreed because the view was breathtaking. Miles upon miles of sugary beaches, extraordinary sand dunes and expansive state parks lined the way to the Lake Express terminal.

“We made it,” I sighed in relief.

As we collected our belongings from our seats, the woman smiled, “Glad you two didn’t get sick.”

Even though the trip was quite tumultuous, it didn’t deter us from traveling back by way of the Lake Express. The boat itself along with the exceptional customer service made the trip enjoyable, despite the unpredictable circumstances. As a matter of fact, our ride back to Milwaukee was perfectly calm and relaxing. We arrived at the Port of Milwaukee late that Sunday night completely rested and relaxed and still high on a romantic first vacation together.

In every relationship and on every journey there will be bumps in the road, or in this case, the water. It’s getting through those unexpected bumps that make everything so much more worthwhile – plus it makes for great stories!

Note: While the Lake Express crew does everything possible to make your journey enjoyable, you can also take a few steps prior to your voyage to ensure the best possible experience. I suggest snagging a seat near the window so you can watch the horizon line, or sit in the center because it’s less rocky.

Also, if it’s possible to take some Dramamine before you leave just in case you’re prone to seasickness, I’d do that. Of course, you can always ask the friendly staff at Lake Express if the weather will be calm or if you should resort to taking an anti-nausea remedy – they will know how high the waves are and will probably offer some recommendations if they think it’s going to be choppy.

I’m very grateful to have had a chance to escape aboard the glorious Lake Express and I’m even more thankful to have had Eric there beside me. I highly recommend that you give Lake Express a try – I will take it again. Just remember that it’s seriously very rare for the trip to be as turbulent as it was when Eric and I were aboard.

The Lake Express offers two round trips per day from May 1 to early June, three round trips a day from June to September 1, and a reduced schedule from September 2 to November 2.



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