When life gives you apples, make apple champagne. At least that's what Charles McGonegal has done with Aeppel Treow Winery, which opened in September on the Brightonwoods Orchard, a few miles east of Burlington in Kenosha County.

The winery, which is a partnership between McGonegal, his wife Melissa and Bill and Judith Stone, who own the orchard with Bill's sister, has produced 800 gallons -- that's 4,000 bottles -- of sparking white apple wine from last year's harvest as its first commerical vintage. This year's apples are already being processed in the small winery located in a barn at the orchard.

"My wife and I started making fruit wines in college (at Michigan Tech) about 10 years ago," McGonegal recalls. "I was a biochem major and prone to micobiological geekishness and wild fruit was readily available. During the long winters we experimented with mead (honey wine). A honey/cider blend led us to the type of wine we are making now."

The McGonegals, who live in Addison, Illinois, continued making apple wine in their basement over the years and they began to buy their apples from the Stones. McGonegal had been talking about growing the apple wine-making into a business and a business plan got him started.

"At the prompting of one of my bosses -- I have a mortgage-paying job as a chemist -- I put together a business plan to explore the idea of a company to produce this wine," McGonegal says. "I liked the looks of the plan, but could never find backing. The biggest single expense is space and the original plan was put together assuming a space (would be) near Chicago."

The space issue was solved when McGonegal and Stone came together.

"We had begun to press our own cider, instead of relying on whatever blend the 'orchard of the day' used," McGonegal recalls. "Our search for heirloom apples -- which have more flavor to contribute character -- led us to Brightonwoods orchard about five years ago.

"Last year, the FDA changed the regulations governing small cider pressers. Most went out of business as a result. Brightonwoods acquired the equipment of one of the exiting cider mills. When they did that, they called us up and asked 'Do you want to use some space here to start your winery?'"

McGonegal spent much of last year converting an old barn and filling it with the necessary equipment and dealing with licensing issues. And, presto (sort of), Aeppel Treow Winery is in business.

McGonegal says Aeppel Treow uses a blend of apples to achieve its crisp and dry, but still alluringly fruity flavor. The wine is made according to traditional French champagne methods.

"We like to use about half heritage apples in a blend," he says. "For now we are getting our heritage apples mostly from Brightonwoods. We like to use dessert apples the British would call Sweet-Sharps: Golden Russet, Roxbury Russet, Blenheim Orange, Margil. We also use about five percent crab apples for tartness and tannins.

"We are in the process of expanding the orchard's collection with a number of varieties specifically bred for use in hard cider from Britain, France and the Isle of Jersey. These 'bittersweet' and 'bittersharp' apples have a lot of hostory behind them (Kingston Black, Chisel Jersey, Foxwhelp, Argile Gris, Muscadet Dieppie, Medaille D'Or), and we are eager to see how they perform in Wisconsin's climate."

McGonegal, of course, is eager to see how his winery succeeds in Wisconsin's climate, but hopes that with the large populations of Milwaukee, Racine/Kenosha and Chicago nearby, he'll be able to make a go of it. With that in mind, next year's vintage will be bigger, he says.

"(We'll) have 1,600 gallons, plus about 100 gallons each of a heritage apple reserve and a perry (pear cider)," McGonegal says. "Pear cider, or perry (English) and poiré (French), are traditonal products of Gloucestershire and Normandy. It's quite rare in the U.S., though. We find that certain blends of dessert pears make a very pleasing, fragrant beverage. We are also growing examples of traditional perry varieties for the future."

At the moment the only way to purchase Aeppel Treow's product is to visit the winery, but McGonegal says that distribution channels are currently being explored. In the meantime, head down to the winery and you'll get a tour, a taste and the opportunity to taste a great new Wisconsin-made product.

While you're there, check out Brightonwoods Orchard and its shop, which sells dozens of types of apples, as well as cider, pumpkins, squash and other treats.

Aeppel Treow Winery and Brightonwoods Orchard are located on 1072 288th Ave. (also known as County B) -- one of Wisconsin's rustic roads -- in Burlington. To get there take I-94 to Hwy. 142 and travel west to County B. Turn right onto B and the orchrd is less than a mile north, on the left. The orchard is open 9 a.m.-6 p.m. daily from Labor Day to Thanksgiving. The winery is open weekends. Call ahead to confirm. For more information, call (262) 878-3000 or visit www.aeppeltreow.com.