Bolzano celebrated for its "Primal Cuts"
October is the fourth-annual Dining Month on OnMilwaukee.com. All month, we're stuffed with restaurant reviews, delicious features, chef profiles, unique articles on everything food, as well as the winners of our "Best of Dining 2010."
A gorgeous new cook book, "Primal Cuts: Cooking with America's Best Butchers," make the trek to Milwaukee so that Bolzano Meats and its owner Scott Buer could be featured.
Published in an elaborate hardcover edition by Welcome Books, "Prime Cuts" was written by Marissa Guggiana, president of Sonoma Direct, a sustainable meats business, and founder of the Secret Eating Society.
Guggiana is also extremely active in the American Slow Food movement.
The book -- with an introduction by James Beard Award-winning television personality / chef Andrew Zimmern -- hits shops on Oct. 12.
Among the 50 profiles of American butchers is one focusing on Buer, who runs the small -- but growing and ever-more buzz-worthy -- Bolzano Meats in a space on Holton Street, near Capitol, that was also the original home of Guy Rehorst's Great Lakes Distillery.
I met and wrote about Buer last year.
"The author contacted me via the local Slow Food group," recalls Buer. "She came up here, took photos and spent most of a hog-butchering day with me."
In addition to a great photo of Buer, Guggiana calls the personable charcuterie connoisseur "mustachioed and fastidiously sincere" and notes that "he is both of Milwaukee and apart from it, like a man just emerged from a glacier."
On the following pages are recipes for red-cooked pork hocks and pork kidney and liver pie (aka pate brisee).
"The recipes are mine," says Buer, who is quick to give props to another chef for part of one of the recipes. "The recipe for the leaf lard crust (in the pate brisee) I use is right from Jennifer McLagan's 'Fat: A misunderstood ingredient'."
The book retails for $37.50, but for home cooks who love cooking with ingredients purchased from the ever-rarer butcher shop, it's worth every cent. And if you can't check it out at a local bookshop for a look, Buer can help with that and with a little discount, too.
"I have a preview copy to look over at our farmers market booth," says Buer. "Folks can even save a little with pre-ordering with us right at our booth."
A book tour will bring Guggiana to Milwaukee for a Nov. 3 event at Boswell Book Co. on Downer Avenue. Buer will be at the 7 p.m. talk selling his products (Slow Food gets 20 percent of sales) and Buer says the farmer from whom he buys his hogs will also be there.
In the meantime, Buer says "Primal Cuts" is already paying dividends for Bolzano.
"The book is getting us some much-appreciated publicity, more awareness of the odd and slow process we use, and why it's a cool thing to do to local food," he says.
Talkbacks
staciemichelle | Oct. 7, 2010 at 3:09 p.m. (report)
Actually, the article says that it is the butcher shops which are "ever-rarer" not butchers themselves. Though, my understanding is that Pick n Save (and similar) butchers don't get whole hogs (or other food animals) that they are required to truly butcher themselves, piecing out the parts and preparing them for sale, let alone treat in an old-fashioned artisanal manner. I've had some of the dry cured meats from Bolzano and there is nothing in the chain grocery stores that can even compare. So tasty!
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Natemarq | Oct. 6, 2010 at 1:23 p.m. (report)
Since when are butchers rare? There are butchers in every grocery store and every supermarket.
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