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In Dining
Friday fish fry: A Sconnie tradition
The Wisconsin fish fry has been around for at least 75 years.  
By Molly Snyder Edler RSS Feed Twitter Feed
OnMilwaukee.com Staff Writer

E-mail author | Author bio
More articles by Molly Snyder Edler

Published Oct. 17, 2008 at 5:33 a.m.
Tags: fish fry, history of fish fry, kegel's inn

October is Dining Month on OnMilwaukee.com. All month, we're stuffed with restaurant reviews, special features, chef profiles and unique articles on everything food. Bon appetit!

Most nights, dinner choices vary for Wisconsinites. Perhaps Mondays are pizza night or Wednesdays are sandwich night or Sundays are take-out night, but Friday nights are a collective no-brainer. Most Dairy State dwellers like to kick off the weekend with a heaping plate of fried fish, a couple of starchy sides and that frothy libation that finishes off a fry so fittingly.

But how did the Wisconsin fish fry tradition begin?

There are numerous schools of thought about the origin of this fishy ritual. A major factor is proximity. Living next to a large body of water makes fish a readily available -- and an affordable -- food source.

The fish-frying fervor began with European immigrants in the '20s or '30s, and was particularly popular with German Catholics seeking restaurant options during Lent's meat-free Fridays.

The Wisconsin fish fry might have ties to the British fish and chips, although the concept doesn't fare well on a nightly basis. Apparently, Wisconsinites have a taste for fish on one night and one night only (except for the occasional Wednesday.)

Most likely, prohibition flared up the end-of-the-work-week fish feast. When taverns could no longer serve alcohol, they tried to find other ways to attract customers, so the fish fry became an important marketing opportunity for struggling watering holes.

Kegel's Inn, 5901 W. National Ave., has served a fish fry since 1968. Rob and Jim Kegel, third generation owners of the family business, operated the bar and restaurant since 1981. Their grandfather, John Kegel, opened the establishment in 1924.

Kegel's is one of Milwaukee's most popular fish fry spots. It features an extremely diverse menu that offers baked or fried fish, along with a variety of other sea foods, and sides such as potato pancakes, German potato salad, spaetzel and French fries.

Kegel says his business' success is primarily based on fresh ingredients, and the fact they prepare all the food on Friday afternoon.

"We have a fryer strictly for our fish and a fryer strictly for our potatoes," he says. "That's important."

Most fish fries feature deep-fried perch, cod, bluegill or walleye, along with French fries, potato pancakes or a baked potato, coleslaw that's often homemade, bread and butter, and tartar sauce.

Although the basic deep-fried fish fry still rules in Wisconsin, many restaurants offer variations of the age-old Friday dinner. Baked or broiled fish can often be replaced for its greasier counterpart, and ethnic twists on the classic fry are common. For example, Albanese's, 701 E. Keefe Ave., offers a side of mostacholi with their Friday fish, and Café Hollander, 2608 N. Downer Ave., serves their fish with Belgian frites and dipping sauce.

Fish fries are served by the plate or family-style. The all-you-can-eat fish fry was once standard, but is harder to find these days.

The affordability of the fish fry is another reason for its popularity. Wisconsinites are thrifty folk by nature, and the generally low cost is appealing to hardworking people looking to stretch the dollar or save for a snowy day.

Additionally, fish fries have always been social events, with an important community component. While Wisconsinites divide politically or religiously, the fish fry is a common platform and, when it's particularly tasty, a shared near-spiritual experience.

"The fish fry is a freak," says Kegel. "And it's only in Wisconsin."

3 comments about this article.
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Posted by High_Life_Man on Oct. 18, 2008 at 2:11 p.m. (report)

Never use the term Sconnie again. It's stupid.

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Posted by yvonne8753 on Oct. 17, 2008 at 1:25 p.m. (report)

I agree that fish fries are not unique to Wisconsin. I have traveled all over the US and every place has a Friday fish fry. They are also very very big in the South.

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Posted by tservo on Oct. 17, 2008 at 9:03 a.m. (report)

Sorry Mr. Kegel, the Friday night fish fry is hardly unique to Wisconsin. I grew up in Western New York, where every restaurant & bar also serves a Friday fish fry. Probably for the same reasons...large Catholic population, love of fried food, etc. I'm sure it exists in other regions as well, such as in the deep south where it's the traditional Saturday night fish fry.

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