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In Dining

Cubanitas, 728 N. Milwaukee St., is the city's first entirely Cuban restaurant. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Dining

Mojitos are always a draw at Cubanitas, but the food is excellent, too. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Dining

Compared to its neighbors, Cubanitas has a casual, upbeat vibe. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Dining

Warm weather and outdoor dining make a perfect match at Cubanitas. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

For mojitos and more, Cubanitas hits the spot


There is little better on a hot summer day than a mojito -- white rum laced with muddled fresh mint leaves, cane sugar, and tonic with fresh lime juice and a lime slice served up in a Tom Collins glass with lots of ice. The drink is an aromatic as it is delicious, and quickly conjures yearnings for trademark Cuban dishes like empanadas and ropa vieja (Cuban-style shredded beef).

And while Cuban dishes make appearances on other Latin restaurant menus in Milwaukee, Cubanitas, 728 North Milwaukee St., is the city's first, and now only, entirely Cuban restaurant.

And, its longevity is not without reason.

Six years into its tenure, Cubanitas not only serves up a thirst-quenchingly delicious mojito, the appetizer and entrée items carry through the simple flavors and fresh ingredients that are the mark of good Cuban cuisine.

In a vibrant orange space with an intimate bar, Cubanitas takes on a more casual and upbeat face than its Milwaukee Street neighbors, which is likely part of what makes the restaurant a favorite for lunch and dinner. Service here on recent visits was somewhat inconsistent and rather slow, but what we found lacking in hospitality was made up for in the sandwiches and entrées we sampled on our visits.

Empanadas come in three varieties for a reasonable $2.25 each, and are large enough to share. Pollo arrived with a crisp, flaky pastry shell generously stuffed with seasoned shredded chicken punctuated by bits of chopped olives and raisins. Picadillo stuffed the same turnover with seasoned ground beef and cheese. The pollo was the more flavorful of the two, but both were very good.

Sandwiches are pressed to crunchy perfection on fresh bread the restaurant flies in "from out east daily," and are served slice diagonally lengthwise, which makes even the Cuban sandwich easy to eat in business attire with no mess. The Cubano ($7.50) piles lean ham with roasted pork, swiss cheese, dill pickle slice and mustard aioli for cravable results. A sandwich de pollo ($7.50) ordered on the server's recommendation, delivered juicy marinated chicken breast with a red pepper spread.

Sandwiches are served solo on the plate, but the serving is more than enough for one for lunch. Pair them with an order of Cuban guacamole with plantain chips ($6.75) in the evening to make a meal. The guacamole is above average, and the plantains are thin and crisp for a great complement to the avocado and spice.

Entrées come with white or yellow rice, depending on the dish, and some are paired with your choice of red or black beans. Ropa Vieja ($12.50) was thick with a tomato Creole sauce and shredded with peppers. Mixed with the white rice, this dish carried just a hint of latent heat, and was excellent. Camarones ($13.50) offered plump, fresh shrimp in a rich garlic white wine sauce and served with yellow rice. The shrimp were well-cooked, and the garlic was strong without being overpowering.

Cubanitas offers daily specials, but plan to get there early, as they are extremely popular and sometimes sell out. Expect to see creative items like baby back ribs with guava barbecue sauce and Cuban pot roast with chorizo on the evening specials menu, and Saturdays bring a Spanish omelet with chorizo, potatoes and onions.

Ice cream also appeared to be a popular option with diners at Cubanitas. Helados Ice Creams ($4) come in coconut or Häagen-Daaz Dulce de Leche and looked to fare well both with Cubanita's Cuban style coffee and the trademark mojitos as a cool, refreshing end to a vibrant Cuban meal.



Talkbacks

Dave1 | May 13, 2009 at 3:58 p.m. (report)

I've got a Cuban friend that doesn't think much of the place but he might be bias. Maybe they do something differently than his mother did, i don't know. But after reading most of the comments i'll be sure to try it. The owner seems like a pretty nice guy as well.

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Rose | May 13, 2009 at 12:50 p.m. (report)

I LOVE Cubanitas. My only complaint (which is good for them I guess) is thats it always SOOOO busy! Worth the wait though.

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Downtowner | May 11, 2009 at 11:17 a.m. (report)

Consistently great food, and really affordable. 2 or 3 empanadas and those awesome plantains and gauc and you're good to go. Add a Cuban beer or a mojito and you're really set.

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mikeyp3 | May 11, 2009 at 10:28 a.m. (report)

I love Cubanitas. Their mojitos are the best in town and I have NEVER had a bad Sandwich Cubano there. It's also the most affordable place on Milwaukee Street. The only minor quibble I have is that the homemade guac and plantain chips are generally only available at night. I want 'em at lunch! But I think that's because they want the product to be fresh (and it is) and the demand is so high at night -- they can barely keep up. So, if you haven't been there -- you should check it out.

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repoman | May 11, 2009 at 10:11 a.m. (report)

Every time I have been there the food is outstanding and the service is the best around. There is a reason they are still around while most of the businesses around them keep changing. One of Milwaukee's gems.

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