For those of us who were accustomed to the cozy, pre-fire dining room inside Beans and Barley, the "new" space (now 10 years old) took a while to warm up to. But because of consistently excellent food and attentive service, the airy eatery is just as pleasing as the original café.

There are so many staple items on Beans' menu that it's difficult to narrow down the best of the best. However, the tempeh rueben ($5.25) is definitely on the short list of good eats. Tempeh is an Indonesian high-protein food made from soybeans, and when it's baked and stacked on rye bread with sauerkraut, melted Swiss cheese and thousand island dressing, it almost puts real corned beef to shame. (Note the word "almost.")

You can't comfortably order egg salad ($3.75) or tuna salad ($5.95) sandwiches just anywhere, but Beans is one place where the religiously fresh food makes such spreads an option. Both are topped with shoyu sunflower seeds, served on French bread and deserve some sort of award in the category of sandwich salads.

All sandwiches are served with a pickle and a teasingly small scoop of the rice of the day, always steamed to perfection. There is also a quiche of the day and two daily soups. Hearty vegetarian chili is always available, made with red beans, bulgar wheat, a bunch of veggies and secret spices for a pleasant kick.

The Mexican food items are also very good, from the super burrito ($5.50) to the black bean quesadilla ($5.50), and the hot green salsa could rival any of the South Side salsas.

Although most of the menu is vegetarian, there are a few meat alternatives. One of the daily specials is often a chicken dish and most of the Mexican entrees can be ordered with poultry.

Beans' offers many fine wines and micro beers. Alterra coffee, Blue Sky Natural Soda, smoothies and Orange Rabbits -- a curious but delicious concoction of carrot and orange juices -- are other highlights of the beverage menu.

A common complaint among Beans' eaters is that the menu has been basically the same for 30 years. In attempt to remedy this gripe, the chefs are now whipping up something new and experimental every week for diners to try. Recently, for example, a sun dried tomato and tofu sandwich was the specialty. It was tempting, but for those of us who truly love the Beans experience, we're afraid we'd feel cheated ordering anything but one of our old favorites.

Beans and Barley, 1901 E. North Ave., is open Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sunday, 9 a.m-8 p.m. (Brunch served until 4 p.m.)

Call (414) 278-7878 for more information.