Bartenders weigh in on pouring wine
"Bar Month" at OnMilwaukee.com is back for another round! The whole month of February, we're serving up intoxicatingly fun articles on bars and clubs -- including guides, the latest trends, rapid bar reviews and more. Grab a designated driver and dive in!
In recent years, wine pouring became one of the many hospitality-industry conundrums, because establishments need to make enough money to stay in the game, and yet the only way to ensure repeat business is to provide customers with the most value for their hard-earned cash.
Hence, when pouring a glass of wine, most bartenders strive to strike a balance between a prudent pour that ensures profit and appeases the customer at the same time.
The amount of wine poured at bars varies from a strict measurement to a splashy estimation, but according to master 'tender Paul Kennedy, the goal is to get five glasses from every bottle.
"Roughly, 5-ounce pours are ideal," says Kennedy, who works at Tonic Tavern, 2335 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., Brocach, 1850 N. Water St., and Hector's on Delaware, 3040 S. Delaware Ave.
Although 30-year bartending vet Kennedy eyeballs his pours, he says being more precise is a good idea for newbie drink slingers.
"With a green staff, measuring is not a bad idea," he says. "But be discreet about it."
Angel Otero bartends at Nessun Dorma, 2778 N. Weil St., and he measures his pours in a 150-milliliter chemistry beaker before transferring it into the glass.
"We don't use traditional wine glasses, so it's the best way to be sure I'm pouring the right amount," says Otera.
John Dye, owner of Bryant's Lounge, 1579 S. 9th St., agrees with this measure-first method of pouring alcohol.
"I found that free pouring can lead to problems as different bartenders have different ideas of what is a full pour," says Dye. "I like how Nessun Dorma uses a chemistry beaker for a consistent pour."
Dave Mikolajek -- aka OnMilwaukee.com's contributing writer known as "College Dave" -- bartends at Balistreri's Bluemound Inn. At Balistreri's, a taped-off wine glass sits behind the bar to remind barkeeps how high to fill the glass. However, according to Mikolajek, Balistreri's recommended pour provides more blush for your buck.
"We don't overpour, but in reality, we pour four glasses (per bottle) compared to many other restaurants' five," he says. "We're generous with not only our pours, but with our pricing, too."
Chad Ellingboe is an assistant manager at Trocadero, 1758 N. Water St., and when he's on the drinkers' side of the bar, he prefers an unmeasured pour.
"When wine is measured it makes the establishment feel more like a corporate chain," says Ellingboe.
Plus, Ellingboe believes confidence is an important quality for bartenders to demonstrate in their personality and their ability.
"Seeing bartenders who know how to pour perfectly each time makes me appreciate them a lot more and shows that the establishment has hired professionals," says Ellingboe. "Allowing the staff to eyeball their pours gives the bartender a sense of pride in their work, and when a guest sees them, it gives a sense of professionalism."
In general, Trocadero bartenders use the eyeball method, but only after being trained to pour a 5-ounce glass of wine consistently. After the initial training, bartender are occasionally tested to ensure accuracy.
"We have, from time to time, instituted measuring in order to compare numbers and test bartenders' accuracy, and it's a good way to refresh the bartender's memory," says Ellingboe.
Rachael Franks, like many drinkers, understands that too many overpours can upset a bar's delicate profits, but she is not willing to sacrifice how much wine she receives in her glass.
"If I am paying $7 or $9 for a glass of wine, I want every last drop," says Franks. "And then some."
Talkbacks
pjk | Feb. 24, 2010 at 2:39 p.m. (report)
Hckyboy,I don't think you are aware of how things are run. I think you think you know but you really don't know. 800% mark up on beer? Huge profits on food? What restaurant have you run/ worked at where these fantasy numbers occur? Comparing businesses like Ray and Dots to Trocodaro? With mortgages and overhead? I'm sure Ray and Dot are wonderful people. Next time you see them ask them how much they paid for their building/business and for how many years has it been paid off? Seems to me that after business owners trying to succeed and city government you don't have too much of a beef with anyone else. Hopefully you can do more then just criticize. Please enlighten us all with your background and solutions.
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Hckyboy00 | Feb. 23, 2010 at 4:30 p.m. (report)
I'm pretty well aware of how a restaurant is run, any business really. since the wine is covering all those costs, thank goodness the 800% mark up on beer and the insane markup on food (which comes from the same distributor as just about anywhere in Milwaukee) can go straight into the pockets of owners. And then when their business struggles, it's no problem, they can just burn it down, because the city of Milwaukee is completely inept. I hear they are 'still' looking for whoever set fire to the Brit Inn, amazing, that wasn't torn down. I'm sure the nearest golf course is crawling with arson investigators. The bar industry has the most insane markup percentage wise of any business out there except maybe oil. Napkins and straws even in counts of hundreds are only pennies. When was the last time you ever saw a bar close due to bad business? There are literally thousands of bars in milwaukee, and probably half of them are garbage dive bars that see about a dozen customers a day, and yet they still make money.
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Nezrite | Feb. 23, 2010 at 1:15 p.m. (report)
I'll never forget getting a glass of wine at The Oak Barrel - there was actually a fill mark etched on the glass, and it was still poured short!
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rob | Feb. 23, 2010 at 12:10 p.m. (report)
Oh Sally, don't you have something much more pressing to do like your nails or your hair or some new skin product that needs to be tried! What is a girl like you wasting your time reading something so mundane! Get over yourself girl!
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pjk | Feb. 23, 2010 at 9:58 a.m. (report)
Hckyboy you need to understand that the "profit" that is made on a bottle of wine pays for the straws, napkins, WE bill, insurance, cleaning, glassware, soap, urinal cakes, lightbulbs, employee salaries, barstools and everything else that isn't free but you seem to take for granted. It's not a lemonade stand.
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