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In Bars & Clubs
Cafe Centraal eases into old Gil's space
 
By Molly Snyder Edler RSS Feed Twitter Feed
OnMilwaukee.com Staff Writer

E-mail author | Author bio
More articles by Molly Snyder Edler

Published Aug. 17, 2006 at 5:36 a.m.
Tags: eitel, scott johnson, montemurro, hi-hat, trocadero, comet, fuel, balzac, gil's, downer

For decades, Downer Avenue was one of Milwaukee's hippest strips -- especially in the '80s when the Coffee Trader, Café Demi and Brewster's were among the city's most cutting-edge hangouts, attracting young Milwaukeeans and suburbanites alike.

Mike Eitel remembers driving from Cedarburg to Downer Avenue as soon as he got a driver's license, and two decades later, is psyched to be a part of the scene again.

Eitel -- along with his "Diablos Rojos" restaurant group partners Scott Johnson, Leslie Montemurro and Eric Wagner -- will open Café Centraal in the former Gils' space, 2608 N. Downer Ave., around Nov. 1.

"Café Centraal will be a mix of the Coffee Trader, Gil's and Trocadero," says Eitel. "We're going to cater to anybody and everybody."

The bar and restaurant will focus on being "affordable, approachable and casual" and will offer breakfast, lunch and dinner -- including Sunday brunches -- as well as a full bar.

"This will be the kind of place someone could feasibly go to three or four times a week and enjoy different elements," says Eitel.

Centraal's features will be reminiscent of "grand cafes" in northern Europe that are often housed inside old buildings with an interesting history -- like fire stations and city halls -- and reflect the grandeur of old Europe. But that's not exactly what the Diablos are going for.

"The northern Europe theme will be subtle," says Eitel. "But we'll definitely serve Belgian beer."

Café Centraal's menu will be similar to Gil's, with an emphasis on soups, sandwiches, pizzas and nightly entrees specials. Eitel wants to keep prices down and quality high so everyone, from Lake Drivers to UWM students, feels welcome.

A full renovation is planned for the interior, which will include the old Optix on Downer space. (Optix is moving a few doors north.) Construction on Café Centraal will start next week.

Eitel says the group has big plans for the patio, including a possible resurrection of the old fountain that has remained dry for over a decade. Longtime East Siders might remember when the fountain routinely overflowed with bubbles in the late '80s, thanks to teen pranksters who filled it with detergent bought from the laundromat that predated Gil's in the space.

"We're rethinking the corner patio right now and want to make it something really cool," says Eitel.

Café Centraal will offer sporadic live music, and Eitel says it's possible they'll someday host a music festival in the spirit of Gil Fest.

"We think Gil was great for the neighborhood," says Eitel.

After 10 years, Michael "Gil" Rasmussen decided earlier this summer to close Gil's Café in order to spend more time with his family. After Rasmussen made his announcement, the members of Diablos Rojos -- who also own Hi-Hat, Hi-Hat Garage, Balzac and manage Trocadero -- decided it was a good fit for them.

Although Downer Avenue isn't quite the beacon of forward-thinking culture it once was, the street has enjoyed a small renaissance with the opening of the Original Pancake House earlier this year. The Pancake House moved into the old Coffee Trader space after it was vacant for a decade and has brought scores of diners to the area.

Centraal's lease also includes the walk-down, basement restaurant space that housed El Condor Mexican restaurant. Although at this point they don't have plans for the space, Eitel would like to someday utilize it.

"I can see it as a smoky, dark jazzy bar, like a European cave bar," says Eitel, lightly. "But we'll see."

36 comments about this article.
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Recent Talkbacks ...

Posted by OMCreader on Oct. 11, 2006 at 10:08 a.m. (report)

elizabeth Krier said: is there a number you can call to apply for a job here? please email me emkrier@uwm.edu

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Posted by OMCreader on Oct. 10, 2006 at 6:51 p.m. (report)

los balls said: Are they open yet?And what about a non- smoking restaurant but a hookah /any kinda smog slash "teahouse" in true Amsterdam fashion. The Troc was such a clever concept for Milwaukee,a shop that sellsitems in the basement and ha people "sit",and make the upstairs a restaurant and not the 1 cuppa coffee and sit for 4 hours that it was when Gils was first opening. Good luck and see you at The Centraal!

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Posted by OMCreader on Sept. 30, 2006 at 6:13 p.m. (report)

Miki said: Good luck ya guys! The Dutchie (Miki)

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Posted by OMCreader on Sept. 20, 2006 at 9:34 p.m. (report)

facts first said: dear "quality first," the diablos rojos group does not run or manage palomino or comet. and clearly, you haven't eaten at the trocadero in the last year! i personally think this group is really starting to kick some arse in quality and service while sticking to their commitment to our city. god forbid they give up on it (and us). congrats to the red devils!

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Posted by OMCreader on Sept. 20, 2006 at 6:29 p.m. (report)

Quality First said: I realize that it's better to have a positive expectation of a new establishment, but after numerous bad dining experiences at Palomino, Comet, and Trocadero, tell me why I should expect a quality product?! The service in all three of those establishments has been repeatedly poor! Then as a customer I have to read unpleasant notes in the menu telling me 'SORRY WE'RE SLOW, BUT THAT'S THE WAY IT IS'?! Neither I, nor a number of colleagues will go to any of these spots anymore because of how rude the wait staff are (Primarily Palomino & Trocodero), but honestly...if your kitchen isn't big enough to serve food in a timely fashion, what right do you have to be serving food at all?! An hour wait for 8 wings?! Ok...my rant is over...and again...I will certainly give this new place a chance, but leadership and the quality of product start at the top. Make me a believer again.

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