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In Dining

By Molly Snyder Edler OnMilwaukee.com Staff Writer E-mail author | Author bio More articles by Molly Snyder Edler

Published Feb. 27, 2006 at 5:33 a.m.

Tags: baker's, farrell's, ice cream

It's too bad a 6-year-old can't write this review, because a 30-something can only imagine the incredible impact Baker's Ice Cream Parlour & Eatery, 15175 W. National Ave., has on a kid.

Case in point: An old-timey candy section greets Bakers' customers, complete with gigantic suckers and a swell selection of "penny" candy favorites. But just beyond the packaged sweet treats is where the real magic happens.

Rubber-ball red walls, colorful Tiffany-style lamps, balloons at every table, a player piano belting out "The Entertainer," and a cheerful staff rushing around in old fashioned outfits -- complete with Styrofoam skimmer hats -- announce that this is birthday party heaven.

So, it's no surprise that there is indeed a birthday party next to our table, although we are somewhat taken aback when the birthday dessert -- a "Hot Fudge Volcano" complete with 30 (!) scoops of ice cream -- is brought out on a stretcher. Owner Patrick Baker and an employee put the massive sundae on a "stretcher" and run it -- yes run it-- around the restaurant while a siren blares.

Ten years ago I might have thought that I had somehow made a wrong turn and ended up in the devil's diner, but parenting softens even the most cynical, and suddenly this seems sweet, exciting ... and familiar.

It's no wonder: Baker modeled his ice cream eatery after Farrell's, a chain of restaurants with a similar motif that was popular two decades ago. Baker worked at the Southridge location (there was also one inside Northridge) and, years later, wanted to bring back the Farrell's-esque fountain fantasy.

"I wanted to create a wholesome, family-friendly restaurant that would take our guests back to a simpler time," he says.

But how's the food, right? It's nothing fancy, but it's good. Unlike other joints supposedly designed for kids that are really germy pits of violent video games and bad grub, Baker's offers classic entertainment and quality, no-frills fare. The kids' grilled cheese ($2.95), for instance, is darn near perfect: brown and toasty bread with oozy cheese in the middle. Plus, it's stabbed with a little American flag. Are we in Mayville?

The kids' menu also offers a peanut-butter-and-banana sandwich ($2.95), chicken strips ($3.95) and the usual hamburger-and-hotdog options. All of the sammys come with waffle fries or applesauce.

The adult menu is a tad more sophisticated, with a variety of salads and sandwiches along with the classic hamburgers and hotdogs. We ordered a Reuben ($9.35) that was piled with corned beef, layered in well-melted Swiss and had a reasonable amount of Thousand Island dressing. We also tried the Deluxe Turkey, Cheese and Bacon ($7.45), which was, again, a really good sandwich.

We felt there could have been a few more fries with our sandwiches, but overall, found ourselves surprisingly impressed with the quality of food. We ended our meal with a tin roof sundae ($5.35) and found it absolutely delicious. Even our custard-favoring palates were impressed.

The dessert menu is dreamy, featuring pages of yummy cold concoctions including the fudge mint marvel ($6.45), turtle sundae ($6.95), ice cream shakes and malts ($3.95), banana splits ($5.85) and something called the "hot caramel nutty nutty" ($6.35).

For large groups, like birthday parties, Baker's features "Colossal Creations," which include the Matterhorn ($20.95) that serves up to four; the Big Top ($45.95) and the afore-mentioned Hot Fudge Volcano ($45.95) that serve up to ten.

Baker's Ice Cream Parlour and Eatery is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. For more information, call (262) 784-7700.

24 comments about this article. Post a comment / write a review.

Recent Talkbacks ...

Posted by OMCreader on Aug. 21, 2006 at 5:10 p.m. (report)

Patrick Baker said: Brian did not mention that he presented a credit card that was not signed on the back. Our policy is to ask for government provided photo identification when we are presented with an unsigned credit card. This is the recommendation of MasterCard and many other credit card processors. The following is from MasterCard’s website regarding credit card fraud: “Compare signatures. The back of the card must be signed, and the signature should reasonably compare to the cardholder signature on the sales receipt. Check to be sure that it has not been taped over, mutilated, erased or altered in any suspicious manner. The word “Void” on the signature panel indicates that the signature panel has been tampered with.” Our credit card acceptance policy is for the protection of our customers. Many customers have thanked us for being stricter than most other retail stores or restaurants. While I am sorry to lose a good customer, and I do appreciate all the input I receive, it would be unwise to change this policies simply because it inconveniences one guest. If anyone has any questions or comments, I can be reached directly at pbaker@bakersicecream.com.

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Posted by OMCreader on Aug. 20, 2006 at 2:21 a.m. (report)

Brian said: What a great concept. Unfortunately this restaurant fails to meet my expectations. In thinking about a restaurant in the tradition and spirit of Farrell’s Ice Cream Parlour I would think I would be entering a fun and whimsical atmosphere. While you will find the overall décor to have the nostalgic appearance reminiscent of “the good ole’ days”, several small details miss the mark. For example, you’ll find a CD player/Audio system on top of the piano instead of being tucked away as not to elude to current technology in place. You will also find green and red cleaning buckets in view on the counter next to the piano. Careful planning would have provided for these items to be hidden away. Service at the restaurant is average. I have visited more than 15 times and at different time periods of the day. With the exception of one server, I have received the same mediocre service each subsequent time. The service has always been professional, courteous and timely which is integral, but this is not George Webb counter service. Being a specialty restaurant/parlour I am looking for the staff to come alive and play the part in keeping with the theme the place is founded on, an example being emulating one of the Marx Brothers, etc. while maintaining a professional environment. I attribute the semi mundane service to the leadership and direction of the owners. Unfortunately the only time I see the place come alive is during the birthday presentations. I think every customer at every visit should feel it is a special occasion - modeling after Disney – (which so many companies to do) where all employees are part of a “cast” to create the ideal customer experience. The food is good and the treats are phenomenal and moderately priced. I had previously recommended Baker’s to my friends, co-workers, work clients and church members. Because of my last experience I have retracted my recommendations mainly because I feel there are other places that can provide the same experience since Baker’s is content with their level of service, such other places include Oberweis Ice Cream & Dairy(www.oberweisdairy.com ) which also does not use plastic/paper serving items for dine-in service, Baskin Robbins 31 Flavors (www.baskinrobbins.com ), and Cold Stone Creamery (www.coldstonecreamery.com), and Dairy Queen (www.dairyqueen.com ) as well as the many frozen custard stands in the area (www.custardlist.com ) serve up great creations. I might have the occasion to visit there again, but it will not be because it was my idea, but that of others in my “company”. On my last visit, being the 15th visit to my recollection (many visits were multiple experiences within a calendar week) Julie Baker, Patrick Baker’s wife (owners) completed by sale at the register for the Peanut Butter Cup Sundae that I frequently get ($ 4.95) asked me for my I.D. when I presented my Visa Credit Card for payment. I have used the same card for every purchase at Baker’s. Both Julie and Patrick have seen me there AND interacted with me specifically and themselves at least 10 of the 15 times have completed my sale using my Visa previously as well. I really was offended that they had questioned my identity as I was beginning to call myself a “regular”. I also ride a scooter (which they knew) and carry minimal items with me, not having my wallet in my pocket, it was in my scooter. I was asked to get my I.D. for the $ 4.95 purchase, and I did. I always tip well for table service, another reason I will go elsewhere, those other establishments mentioned previously above are counter service, eliminating the tip). I am an established manager both in the retail and restaurant industries and you just know when someone is committing a fraudulent act. If I had ordered a huge meal, if I ordered tons of food to go, if I had not been a frequent customer, if I had not made a point of interacting with the owners, then I might question a purchase that was sizeable, but not a $ 4.21 purchase. It is not the policy of the credit card companies to even require a signature for purchases under a certain amount, and this even with tip was under $10, case in point Boston Market does not require a signature, and there are others. This demonstrates how inflexible the owners are and this carries over into other aspects of the business and possibly is why the service is so stiff and forced. I felt it necessary to express these views to potential guests so that they do not have a false expectation for an experience at Baker’s. If any of these comments influence change I think that is a good thing both for the consumer and for the balance sheet – to you Patrick the accountant. I really do wish the Baker’s the best with this endeavor.

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Posted by OMCreader on June 8, 2006 at 3:37 p.m. (report)

Brooke said: This place needs to improve its service! I took my family to this restaurant after reading this article and was severely disappointed. It was nice they gave the kids balloons, but that's where the fun ends. It took FOREVER to get our food. The service was so slow the kids couldn't even wait for the free birthday sundae. And there were only 2 other families in the restaurant! If a restaurant targets families, they had better make sure their staff understands how to serve them - FAST! And are waffle fries really that expensive that they can't afford to give you more than 4-5 fries? At least put enough on the plate to cover it! Our sandwiches were greasy and overcooked. The bad food and worse service certainly didn't impress this parent.

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Posted by OMCreader on April 22, 2006 at 8:24 a.m. (report)

Dave said: Wow...Farrell's was an institution back then! I worked there for 2 years (circa 1972-1973) and working there was a rivalry between the three high schools (Milwaukee Hamilton, Greendale High, Greenfield High) and always a hangout on date night or after any major school event. And it was all good back then…like Happy Days for the 70’s (which ran on TV AFTER Farrell’s opened at Southridge by the way). It was more like healthy competition…or camaraderie--to see how many employees/customers on the night shift belonged to what school or which team after a game came in to “check out the chicks” (I think we were open until 1:00 AM back then). Those were the days before the concept of a sanitized food court took over America’s Malls. When I first started working there, I remember ALMOST NOT being hired in the oh-so-wet dish room…I was FRACTIONS of a point below a three-point grade average at the time…and the manager, Bob H…was selective when it first opened with your grade-point average being a MAJOR requirement! And you worked to move up (finally!) to Waiter! Although it was a “chain” (and was owned by MARRIOTT at the time)…and what a GREAT concept it was!

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Posted by OMCreader on March 24, 2006 at 11:41 p.m. (report)

cat said: I HAVE BEEN TO BAKERS AND THEY ARE GREAT ,BUT I ALSO BEEN TO BABES ICECREAM ON LINCOLN & K.K AND THEY ARE AWESOME. GOT TO TRY THERE HOME MADE WAFFLE BOWLS WITH ZANZIBAR CHOCOLATE ICECREAM.THE ICRCREAM IS MADE IN MADISON THE CHOCOLATE SHOPPE

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